After 5 days, nearly 700,000 combined steps, and many hills the walk was over but the memories will be long ingrained. When you throw 11 people together from different walks of life you never know what the outcome might be, but I am glad to say in the this situation it was one of huge success. Success in the cause, sure, but success also in creating new friendships that saw everyone learn a little from each other. The 11 were made up of myself (named the Ginger Muslim for this trip), and Chris (AKA The Beaver). Chris and I met whilst travelling in India 12 years ago so the trip was a chance for us to share a few old stories. Chris was joined by 2 work colleagues, Johnny and Jeff. Both stationed in Dubai the trip was an opportunity for them to do something a little different whilst taking a break from the busy corporate schedule. A good friend of mine Jana from Singapore came along with 2 of her friends Amy and Rachel. The 4 of us trained together in preparation by walking around Singapore's lake MacRictchie on the weekends...little did we know how easy that was in comparison. Also from Singapore was Toni. Toni has taken a few months out to get involved in some meaningful projects and the work in Burma was part of that. She was accompanied by Sean a Kiwi friend of hers who turned out to be the human duke box with a song for every occasion. Also Sana from Holland. Sana has just arrived in Asia for a few months holiday so Footsteps for Good was perfect timing. And last but not least Ash a colleague of mine from work who we were later to discover had the sweetest of singing voices.
The group met at Chiang Mai airport where we all jumped in to the open back truck for the 2 hour drive to the starting point. Our leader, Hod, was a man with 20 years trekking experience in the Northern Thailand region. Fit, and energetic he knew his stuff which was vital with such little experience in the group. By the time we had reached the starting point the the group had all got to know a little about each other. Day 1 was a short 10kms over a some hills to the village of Karen. As we all started out the group was separated somewhat with fitness levels being different. What was common to all of us though was the realisation that the terrain we would be covering was far from flat. The first kilometre was down hill. The down hills being far tougher on the legs than anyone had anticipated. We reached the village of Karen a little later at around 7pm which meant a few steps in the dark. And with a few trips here and there everyone was fit and ready for a beer or in Hod's case a shot of moon shine. The village was basic with 3 houses, a shed style toilet and the fire as the vital element for cooking and keeping warm. Our sleeping arrangements were a large empty room with thin mattresses on the floor. It was set to be pretty cold with the clear nights sky and higher altitudes of the northern Thailand hills the temperature would fall to about 5 degrees.
As we sat and chatted one thing became clear to all of us. Laughter and singing would be our common language for the week. Helped by Chris's banter with the rest of the group keeping a constant source of entertainment and Sean's varied selection of tunes.
The next day we were up bright and early to the sound of cockerels. One of the life lines for the village people are chickens the only down side you need their male counter parts to keep them fertilized. The cockerels start around 5am which acted as a constant source of entertainment to our trekking guides as they would remind us of this fact this was going to happen as we stayed up a little later than expected the night before.
Hod explained that day 2 would be the hardest day with at least 8 hours walking and some steep hills. A few of us were a little nervous going in with a number of aches and pains but fully determined to conquer the hills. The paths we were taking were rarely used by trekkers more so by locals so there was a real feeling of isolation as we made our way along the tracks. With the majority of us having busy corporate lives there was also a sense of work slipping away with blackberrys and mobile phones now switched off. We reached Lauh around 5pm. Jana and Amy both nursing a few small injuries and all of us feeling it in our leg muscles. Lauh is a small village on the side of a river. There were 4 or 5 houses and a population of about 25. The first thing we did on arrival was jump in the river for a good swim. Cold yes...but damn refreshing. Having a few girls on the trek showed its use as all of use were given nice smelling soaps and shampoos to wash with. Something definitely not on a guys essential list when preparing for a trek.
The evening meal was yet again a hit. Local fish called Tilappia served with rice. This was followed by a good old singsong around the fire with the locals as they indulged on moonshine. We had now covered around 35kms over a day and half so everyone was feeling pretty confident though Amy and Jana were carrying both bruises and swollen legs so there was a little apprehension over how the follow 2 days would unfold.
We were woken again on Day 3 by the sound of cockerels. The fire from the evening before still smouldered as pigs, cats and dogs all played together on the outside lawn. We started the day with an amazing breakfast of pancakes and fresh fruit. With such limited resources to make food it was amazing we were being served 5 star breakfast whilst surrounded by a fairly primitive living environment. With tired legs all around it we were lucky enough to start the day with a raft of about 15kms. The group had 3 rafts made of bamboo to make or way down the river. The scenery was like something from Jurassic park with high banks holding various species of trees. As we meandered along we saw king fishers and as well as eagles. There were a few moments of silence as we drifted but these were quickly ended by another rock song from Sean. He seemed to have a talent that blended Metallica and nature in a way we were all growing to love. There was a brief stop for lunch before we headed back on foot to head for our night camp in the forest.
The night camp was a high light of the trip for sure. Arriving at about 5pm we found a clearing in the jungle next to the river. The canopy was high and the sky shadowed by tall leaning bamboo. A water fall could be heard in the distance. The guides immediately set to work on building a camp. This was done by cutting down some of the long bamboo plants so they could be cut and used as supporting structures. Helpers from an outside village also brought in straw to to make a comfortable sleeping base. Whilst this as being done the whole team headed for the water fall for a nature shower.
Being out in the jungle for the night we got to see how many uses there are for bamboo. Everything from providing drinking water, to housing, to cooking utensils, to a tea pot and I am sure weapons if needed. No wonder Vietnam was such a troubling battle for the western soldiers...our guides were simple village people but with their bamboo and forest environment they came across as invincible. Our sleeping quarters for the night had been finished and although basic they were very comfortable and open facing to forest so we could hear the river during the night. Another night around the fire and yet more laughing and singing. Ash's version of Country Road was definitely the most popular composition and with Chris's prompting he must have played it nearly 10 time. Jeff and I also showed our talents with a few chords. A a memorable night...oh dynamite!
Sleeping in the jungle for most of us was the most peaceful night. Maybe it was the river, or maybe it was the lack of cockerels in the morning I am not sure but we all felt revived in the morning. Ash, and I headed up to the ridge and meditated for a short time as did Jana with Ash a short time later. The sound of the river in the distance helped to focus our minds and it was clear why so many monks spend their time in North Thailand seeking enlightenment with the surrounding tranquility.
Day 4 and the final day we were told would be quite tough with alot of up hill though only a few hours. We were up to about 45kms now so a little less than we had originally planned but certainly no easier. As we made our way out of the hills and out of the canopy the sun beamed down. It was a hot day. We climbed and climbed and each time we thought we were at the top another corner was turned to reveal another hill. It took us around 2 and a half hours to reach the top which was 1500 metres. The views of the surrounding hills were spectacular though the need for water and rest took precedence. Although there was still a few kilometres left this part of the walk felt like the end with the fact it was the highest peak. All of us reached at different times..but all of us reached which was what mattered. A few of us who had started out strong had been humbled a little, and those that started out a little less showed their strength at the end.
We strolled the last few kms and ended in a small village where the truck would pick us up and head for Pai. There was a sense of achievement amongst the group and also a trust that had been built up.
Over the next 12 hours we shared our experiences and insights. It was clear that as much as raising money for the people of Burma this walk had also opened the hearts of all that were involved. We had forged life long friendships that otherwise would not have come about and learnt many things from each other. We all spoke openly about what we were going to change in our lives when we returned home as a lesson from the experience. For me it was about a new start. My shoes fell to bits in the last few hours and I ceremoniously cremated them on the final camp fire in Pai. Being a person that does not believe in coincidence I took this as a sign of change for my self in 2009 and with a pair of new shoes comes a new walk, a more confident direction, and an even happier year.
To end on the words of Paolo Nutini from his joyous song 'New Shoes'.........'I put some new shoes on and suddenly everything is alright'
What a great trip!......In friendship...
Matt
Footsteps for Good